- Edit (TBD)
Description
Alrighty, this route was a blast. Great rock quality. Some lichen here and there and we only had to clean a couple spots on the route. Not a lot of choss considering. And really unique almost every pitch ends in a sweet mantle or beached whale move. You're stoked trust me.
Pitch 1: This climb has already been done as with the one to the left. Not sure the name or grade but it felt about 10a. Climb right over easy terrain until you hit the crack the splits the middle of the face. Gain a roof and you'll be rewarded with a cushy belay ledge. Move the belay right ~10 feet for pitch 2.
Pitch 2: 5.9 climb and layback your way up the corner till you get to another ledge.
Pitch 3: 5.8- We climbed right to the huge flakes, but you could climb left from the ledge at 5.6 or so. stand up on the big blocks and grab those flakes, but not too hard or you might cut your hand or your rope. They're sharp! Exit the flakes left to easier runout climbing to gain once again another ledge. Once you've brought up your second, move the belay 100' to the left by walking over a loose ledge to below the small pine tree. (It's the only pine tree up there. It's easy to find)
Pitch 4: Pick your own line up to the tree, once at the tree move past it by gaining the big block behind it. Continue to move up using a pick your own line mentality. Keep going past the first ledge you see, climb up another 15 foot section of rock, continue past yet another small ledge up to the belay for P5 which will be marked by black streaks in the rock. We broke these ledges up into pitches not knowing how big they were, so better to just run em together if you've got the slings and no drag. Keep a medium nut and purple totem for the belay, a normal .5 won't work as well in the flaring pod. 5.7ish
Pitch 5. Wow, the money pitch! This crack can be seen from the ground splitting the headwall and yeah, it's just as good as it looks if not better. Move past a thin crack section up and to the right of the black streaks. You'll find a left leaning 3" crack, bump your cams till you get into the overhanging very exposed crux section. Take the last good rest and fire your way above the tit. Once above the crux you'll find 5.9 climbing to the top. Even though it's only 5.9, with the pump you've just amassed you'll think it's harder. Amazing pitch. .11-
Location
Once you hit the base of the wall. You'll keep walking. The starting pitch is on what looks like a giant pedestool. I'll throw some pictures up for the route that will make it a little more obvious than that.
Protection
nut rack ranging from micro to medium.
slings x10
Standard alpine rack with doubles in small fingers to .75