- Edit (TBD)
Description
This line climbs a beautiful orange water streak on some of the most amazing holds I've encountered on RC limestone.
To get to the route climb,
That's Not A Lightsaber
or
Star Destroyer
.
It's not a bad idea to stick clip the first bolt as blowing the moves right off the deck will land you right on your belayer.
The climb starts off steep with small edges for the right hand and big sidepull pinches for the left.
Around the 3rd bolt the real business begins, but some might be a little pumped at this point.
The next ten feet have some very unique holds with small two-finger, half-pad edges and a two-finger "twisty" pocket. (You'll see what I mean when you get there.)
The last half of the pitch is basic big jugs, stems and using full-body climbing.
Location
This climb is the pitch that's above
That's Not A Lightsaber
; it's the orange water streak 75 feet off the ground to the right of the big arch.
Do get down, rappel to the anchors of
That's Not A Lightsaber
and then another to the ground.
You can get all the way to the ground with a 70-meter rope.
Protection
8 bolts, ring anchors at bottom and top. Some long slings for your belayer to get comfortable.
Routes in Tatooine
- 8This Is A Lightsaber!5.11aSport