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Peak Mountain 3

JR Token

FA John Rich and friends, mid '80s
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Scramble up two stair-cased pillars to access a beautiful hand crack. Follow this down through the sizes to a tapering thin crux.

For the 5.12 R finish, climb straight up past the chains to the rim. For gear, the guide recommends 'a strong head.' (don't clip the chains, good gear can be found in the horizontal on the right wall that better directs your fall off the crux)

A more moderate (and arguably more fun) extension steps left around the corner and finishes as for Fall Line/Res Blues/True Grit.  This is the only anchor you need a rope longer than 60m for (a 65m rope is about perfect) and it is a great way to hang a TR on 5 different 5.12 and up tips cracks.

Location

20' left of Gold Rush. Look for the obvious broken pillars that mark the start.

Protection

BD .75-3 with an emphasis on the .75-2 range.


Routes in The Main Wall


  1. 52
    JR Token
    5.10
    Trad