- Edit (TBD)
Description
Starting with your hands on a nice ledge, mantel up, and spend the next 50 feet making big moves between horizontals and praying you hit the 1 ok/good spot in each horizontal. You sort of dance back and fourth on either side of the blunt arete, ending up topping out left where this meets the top of Second Diagonal. It would probably be much harder for someone short.
Out of the few routes I did, this is one of my more favorites in Mormon Hollow.
Hints (aka beta): tick marks would greatly decrease this routes difficulty, as the hard part is finding the good spots. A bad foot in the right locations is often better than a good foot in the wrong location. The crux is a big reach maybe 1/2 way up.
Location
It ascends a face/blunt arete between the diagonal crack routes (Second Diagonal and Birds Next). It shares an anchor with Second Diagonal. The start is sort of marked by a small but good (handhold) ledge about 6' up.
Protection
Protects fairly well, or so I hear. Gunks like horizontal pro I think? 2-bolt anchor shared with Second Diagonal.
You can TR by leading Second Diagonal, or maybe you can walk around and down from the top? I don't know though, ask a local, then tell me what they said.
Routes in Mormon Hollow
- 33'The Buttress' or 'Delaney Arete'5.10Tr · Trad