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Peak Mountain 3

Forbidden Planet

FA E. Johnson & A. Azoff, 1987
CREATED May 2023
UPDATED May 2023

Description

This climb is an arete and face up on the upper tier of Lower Peanuts wall, just right of the routes

Wired

and

Dihedral

. It is some distance up and right of

Aspenleaf Dihedral

.

Aspenleaf Dihedral

is directly above the route

Your Basic Lieback

(5.6), or a scramble to the right of

Your Basic Lieback

(5.Easy).

Go up and past a slanting ledge and belay at a good stance with gear at the bottom of a good dihedral. Move out to the right and clip a bolt on the arete, then move around the corner to the right side and out right to a second bolt before moving up. This is the crux (5.11b). Continue up clipping a few bolts up along the way and heading back to the arete.

Belay & rap from the good bolted anchor up top.

This is a good route with great moves. If I weren't so stuck on multi-pitching, I might give it 3 stars, but like

Sunrider

, it's just not long enough to completely satisfy me.

Protection

Bolts.

Of course, you may want gear to do a good pitch to approach the climb.


1000 km
1000 mi