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Peak Mountain 3

Over the Rainbow

FA Scott Loomis, 5/91
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a kind of trick route. Guaranteed to pack a pump and is super fun! A bolted roof crack of sorts way the heck out in the wilderness. Oh yeah

From the anchor below the roof, head up to the flake/crack and get it on. Laybacking, heel and toe hooking, some jamming, and finally swinging will get you over the lip and a chain anchor.

Location

This goes out the arch/roof on the left side of the main face of Bart. It starts one pitch off the ground. The easiest way to approach is to climb the first pitch of "Under the Rainbow" (5.8), mostly well protected and straightforward face/slab climbing. Alternatively, as a harder approach, climb the arch from the ground via "Follow the Rainbow" (5.9, gear needed)

Protection

5 good bolts to chain anchor. Shenanigans required to get down from the anchor below the roof to the ground with 1 70m.