Demons & Wizards

Start with some fierce crimping for the first four bolts. This is the crux section of the route and flows really well if you get the right sequence. From the fourth bolt, do a fun, slam-dunk move to the downward pointing flake. The moves from the fourth to seventh bolts are steep and fun! The second half of the route essentially climbs the arete of the 5.10a route to the left, but you'll clip separate bolts. I'm sure you could stay on the face and follow the bolt line directly.... Regardless, the first half of this route is quite fun, but I feel it loses stars because of the contrived nature of the upper section.

It is immediately right of

Devil's Gate 2

(5.10a).

The guide said 12 bolts, but I think it only took 11....

This shares anchor with

Devil's Gate 2

(5.10a) but does NOT share any bolts.