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Peak Mountain 3

The Ole 6

FA Erik Wellborn and Phil Wortmann, as a mixed line
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

"We'll work up a number six on them." The #6 is a excellent mixed/drytool route located on the Corinthian Column of Pike's Peak. Steep and sustained, with a huge roof at the top, this route is not to be missed.

P1) Start with a thin smear of ice up a gully to a nice ledge. 100 feet, WI3.

P2) Climb up the detatched flake on the right side, continue up corner and belay on a sloping ledge. 100 feet, M5.

P3) Ascend a weird, flare-y slot (#5 useful) and climb up easier terrain to belay in a alcove below the roof. 100 feet, M5/6.

P4) Traverse the roof on excellent gear, jams, and hooks with mega air below your feet. Wild! Either belay at the end of the traverse on a nice ledge or continue to the top. M6/7 or 5.11.

The pitches can easily be linked if desired. We just kept running out of gear.

Location

The route is located left of the classic "

Total Abandon

" on the large buttress. Look for the obvious corner system with the 30 foot roof at the top.

For descent, you can either rap

Blind Assumption

or scramble up the buttress then walk off right to the highway.

Protection

Doubles to #4. A #5 is useful for the third pitch. Depending on conditions, maybe bring 1 or 2 stubbies.


Routes in North Face of Pike's Peak


  1. 1
    The Ole 6
    5.11
    Alpine · Trad · Mixed