Omer's Route

Great shallow crack and chickenhead climbing.

Pitch 1: climb up cracks traversing to easier knobs if desired. Climb up far enough (passing above large shrub to the right) but still below the lower angle face full of knobs to the right (far side of the left facing corner/crack). Build a gear belay.

Pitch 2: climb up and over to crack, place pro, then step over the corner to the right onto the face loaded with big chickenheads. Sling knobs, and, dance on up. Can traverse to the right and back left on a line of knobs to keep the grade a bit lower. In 60 or more feet, clip a bolt. Climb up and trend left to the shallow and steeper ridge crest and pass the steeper section by slinging another knob. Step up, look up and to the right above a low angle crescent cut out, and clip the last bolt. Milk lower angle friction weaknesses to the top of the slab. Find anchor towards the steeper wall just above the rappel back into the gully behind the wall (sling in pinch).

Descent: single rope rappel back into the gully. Follow gully down, take a left and either do a kinda sketchy downclimb on the climber's right of the gully, or, rappel from one of the large pine trees to gain the base of the route.

Note: we didn't notice the "tunnel" mentioned in the guidebook and other route descriptions. Wondering if recent rockfall has buried it...?

Left side of the El Gaucho formation. Climb up to the more obvious "Puppy Woof" (either 3rd class behind to the left or climb PW) and start on the right side of the tree and rubbly narrow gully. Can also be started by going up the open left facing corner of Gay Caballero and traversing in on the horizontal crack only 20 or so feet from the start of that route.

Standard rack (set of stoppers and cams to 3 camalot or equivalent). 2 lead bolts on the second pitch. Take slings for knobs. No fixed anchor on route. Anchor at top is behind large flake (think, "where would I put a rappel anchor?") and is slings on a pinch (not able to see the slings from the top of the slab: walk around to behind the flake above the most reasonable place for a rappel).