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Peak Mountain 3

Oye Cómo Va

FA JS, John Fowler, 2021
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Mi ritmo….  Named after an uber-classic Santana song, this tricky route takes a diverse line of features starting about 25 feet right of the start of

Bloodsport

.  Small cams protect moves off the deck to the first bolt maybe 20 feet up.  The rock here may still be in the sloughing phase, but it gets better quickly.  Blast up past the bolt to two more bolts and easier slab climbing intersecting

Bloodsport

, which at this point is a rightward traversing crack.  Continue up the headwall above

Bloodsport’s

traversing crack past two more bolts (“mi ritmo”) to gain another slab.  Following more bolts, paddle up until able to step right to power out a right-diagonalling rail to the anchors.  Trad gear can be used throughout to lessen insecurity between the bolts.

To clear the gear after leading, perhaps the best option is to use a second to follow the route due to its traversing nature.  However, if the line is to be seconded, the leader should consider supplementing the bolts with some trad gear along the diagonalling rail leading to the anchors so the second isn’t faced with a potentially bad swing.

Oye Cóme Va

can also be used to get the second tier of East Gate (holding

To Air is Human

, among other routes) by continuing past the anchors via essentially 4th class climbing to reach the top of the first tier.

Location

Oye

starts just above the trail, about 25 feet right of

Bloodsport

and 15 feet right of the

The Evil Nurse

start to

Blooddrive

(see the comments for the

Blooddrive

page).

Protection

Set of cams from micro to 1.5 inches, maybe similar sized nuts.