Cody's Lament

Mike Cody (not Joe Cote) must have lamented missing this line. (?) ...or maybe not with the "X-ish" rating! The 2 stars assumes doing the route with a TR anchor.(see below)If you are not a fan of leading 5.5-5.6X, it is possible to move 15-20 ft left of the "First Shot" anchors and get gear ( mall, yellow TCU fits a ‘hole’ perfectly) into a left-facing corner/flake to set a "directional", and then lower down with a 70 M rope, thus TR'ing the interesting climbing on this route.START- At a tiny, right facing flake/corner about 15-20 ft left of "First Shot", and directly below a streak of dark rock that extends from the top of the cliff.P1 - Climb up past the tiny 'corner' and continue on the dark streak of rock about 15-20 ft left of "First Shot." A little below the level of the anchor of "first Shot" move left to intercept the line of "Ground Zero" at it's 3rd bolt. Continue to the trees. 200 +/- feet, 5.5 - 5.6 X

According to Webster the FA party actually found some "protection" in the form of a #1 Stopper and a #1 Hex. If you routinely carry these on your rack for other than aid climbing, you're a real traditionalist!