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Peak Mountain 3

Death Card (aka Ace of Spades)

FA Wayne Crill and Eric Johnson, 2013
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The climbing is big fun, and in my opinion this would easily be a three star PG-13 route if the detached flake were 100% solid. It's not going anywhere, but I wouldn’t trust it for gear. To me, this makes it a little more serious than PG-13 and not quite worth three stars. Like Lemmy said, "...you know I'm born to lose, and gambling's for fools, but that's the way I like it baby, I don't want to live forever...."

Begin up technical face to the right of the tree starting

Stay Hungry

. A 5.10 move or two off the ground leads to fun, unprotected 5.8 slab for 25’ to the right-angling system that provides finger-sized gear and the broken band below the roof. From a stance at the band, find very good Loweball protection in a pod/slot to begin climbing out the overhanging dihedral. Climb crimpers to steep jugs and up a detached flake to an open hand jug (#3 Camalot) and up to a stance above the blocks and below a delicate dihedral with a small crack. Intricate slot/arête/face climbing takes you to the top. It feels Jalapeño spicy, but it could be more like Habanero?

Location

This route climbs the overhanging, right-facing dihedral just left of

Anthurium

and to the right of

Stay Hungry

, topping out just light of the

Anthurium

anchors to a ledge.

Protection

Gear: Standard Eldo rack including #1 and #2 Loweballs, micronuts.


Routes in Hawk-Eagle Ridge


  1. 18
    Death Card (aka Ace of Spades)
    5.11-
    Trad