The Muscle Up

A scary bit of fun if you like short aproaches, strenuous climbing and just carrying two quickdraws. Spookier climbing than you might think to get to the first pin. The crux is clearing the roof after clipping the 2nd of 2 marginal, upside down pins. The old school gang (Horan, Edlinger, Ruckagaber, Sangdahl, Guerin etc.) used a wicked right heel hook to clear the crux roof. The modern gang seems to prefer going for a left hand undercling off the right hand gaston to clear the roof. An undernoticed route, and quite good I think.

The route is just to the left of King's X and climbs up and through the arching 3 foot roof. It starts on a pile of ankle snapper rocks. Maybe a crash pad to get to the first pin? Seriously though, this route is pretty good despite the description, eh.

The protection is 2 obvious upside down pins (screamer on the 2nd pin is recommended). This route is easiliy toproped from the top of the old 1st pitch of King's X belay (usually fixed).