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Description
The left branch of the Y-shaped couloir on the Northwest aspect of Carson Peak.
The climbing is characterized by moderate snow and rock climbing, interspersed with two short 5th class cliff bands.
There are multiple options for getting through the rock bands. We took left-most line of weakness through both rock bands. First rock band has one 5.6-5.7 move. Second rock band has a few 5.8-5.9 moves.
Eventually, the couloir takes you up onto an exposed 3rd class ridge, that leads you to the summit.
Location
Most easily accessed from the footbridge that crosses Rush Creek, downstream of Agnew Lake. Scramble up 3rd class terrain to the base of the couloir.
Multiple descent options from the summit are possible. Descent options include: "backside" of Carson Peak to Spooky Meadow, Fern Lake, Carson Bowl, or Pete's Dream.
Protection
Cams and nuts.
Pickets may be useful once snow has consolidated. No ice was observed, on route. A fixed two nut rappel anchor was observed at the base of the second crux.
Routes in Carson Peak Alpine
- 2Saint's Way (AKA Y-Couloir)5.9-Alpine · Trad