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Peak Mountain 3

DNF (Direct North Face aka Does Not Finish)

FA SA
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A cool route up the north face of Vortex dome that finishes on one of the most spectacular ledge systems in the Stronghold. The rock on this route goes between being good to being pretty bad so if you are not into grains and crunchies then probably avoid this route. That being said the climbing is fun and provides a bit of an adventurous feel, a far cry from other SA routes such as Endgame. All belays are bolted and all bolts are bomb.

P1- Climb into the first crack system to the left of Clean and Wing. It is a left leaning system that deposits you on a long sloping ledge protected by bolts. A 30' traverse across this ledge deposits you at the anchors. P2- Cool steep crack climbing off the belay takes you to a short traverse right at the end of the crack and then slabby face climbing passed 2 bolts and easier climbing to the belay. Steep! P3- Beautiful rock leads to a bolt and a boulder problem off the belay then easy climbing to gain the ledge system. Once you get to the ledge it will be tempting to stay there for the rest of the day! Soak in the views of Whats my Line and take a shady nap.

Rappel the route in 3 raps.

Location

First locate the large overhanging face on Vortex dome north face, the ledge below it which the climb finishes on will be obvious. Look for the P1 bolted belay about 60 ft off the deck at the left end of a sloping ledge. The P2 crack start is directly to the left of the P1 belay bolts.

Protection

Pro from green C3 to 4", a versatile set of nuts particularly in the smaller range can be nice for the 2nd pitch.


Routes in Vortex Tower


  1. 1
    DNF (Direct North Face aka Does Not Finish)
    5.10c/d
    Trad