- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is a nice crack for those who want to practice carrying a big rack. It looks like a 100 foot offwidth but is really a stemming corner with a big crack for pro. After the wide section, the crack decreases in size to fingers. Above the finger crack is a ledge with two bolts. Outstanding pitch!
From the end of pitch one it is possible to do a 60 meter rappel. (two 60 meter ropes)
Pitch two is a wide crack through a roof, above which more squeezing leads to the summit.
Location
The wide crack right of Window Pain and No Fear of Flying.
Protection
Bring at least on #6 Camalot or friend to "walk" along as you stem. And a finger to fist sized rack of cams. Enough rope for a 60 meter rappel too, unless your topping out.
It may be possible to use the anchor of Lunar Abstract to get down with one rope. I have not tested this yet.
Routes in Central Wall
- 12Lunacy5.10Trad