- Edit (TBD)
Description
Hard to beat a cleanish 4 pitch sport climb in the alpine of the northeast with no hanging belays. Very North facing, this route gets barely any sunlight, which makes it an awesome summer endeavor.
Locate a bolt line underneath an overhang to the left of elephant's head crack. This is Airavata. P1: (5.11a) Climb up through an overhang trending right then left again to a bolt anchor on a ledge. P2: (5.10c) Head up and left to the arete and follow the bolts to another smaller ledge. P3: (5.11b) More techy arete climbing takes you to a big fat grassy ledge below the wild overhanging crux pitch. P4: (5.12b) Follow an absolutely wild overhang up and left to a lower off anchor. Clip it and lower back to the belay (you'll have to get thrown a loop of rope, or pull yourself in while lowering)
From the top of the last pitch lower back to the belay. From the Big ledge it's two rappels with a 70m just gets you back to the packs on the ground.
Location
Just left of Elephant's Head Crack. Follow the left arete of elephant's head buttress.
Protection
Quickdraws. 70m rope lets you skip a rappel.
Routes in Elephant's Head Buttress
- 1Airavata5.12-Sport