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Peak Mountain 3

Wallflower

FA Bob Horan and Dan McQuade, 1987
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Start up

Scorcher

, clip a piton and move right up a ramp using increasingly poor holds and feet. Once the ramp peters out, clip a modern bolt, and execute a very technical compression crux involving horrible feet, and long reaches that gets you to slopey ledge. The last and hardest crux has a more traditional feel. Clip another piton, and lieback/jam up a left leaning seam to the top.

Although there is fixed gear, this feels like kind of a serious lead due to the questionable nature of the old pitons.

This felt more like 12+ to me.

Location

This is to the right of

Scorcher

.

Protection

3 quickdraws. There is no anchor at the top.