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Peak Mountain 3

Cerberus

FA Tyler Adams & Chris Fralick 2010
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

From a deluxe luxury-size belay ledge, Cerberus lies up and right. First climb ~65 feet of easy slab with fairly spaced out bolts. Extend or skip the bolt at the miniature "platform" that marks the transition to overhang to avoid doglegging the rope. Now proceed up another ~75 feet which slowly overhangs more the further you go.

I enjoyed this route immensely because I felt that nearly all of the movement flowed very well, with few awkward moments. Cerberus is a great sustained endurance test; The hardest move is perhaps .10a/b, and in the final five bolts so is the easiest. Look forward to big neutral edges, smaller incuts, and leaning back on phat pinchy slopers, all made of Wolf's wonderful sticky andesite. When you finally throw your arms onto the finish ledge, look down at the overhang that snuck up on you!

The anchor-to-ledge distance for a free hanging rope is approximately 38 meters. A single 70 will not reach. Plan accordingly. Wear a helmet:

The upper topography of Wolf directs rockfall from roughly a million square feet of alpine choss toward this particular area.

Location

From the Arch, continue right and head up to the "big wall" starting ledge. The 'hump' on it has one bolt above it: This is Gigantor. Left of this and trending up/left is Edge Of Mordor (5.8, 12 bolts), which forms the access pitch. Edge of Mordor leads to a giant belay ledge from which one may access Cerberus, or continue Edge Of Mordor (the foreboding wide dihedral crack)

Protection

15 bolts total + bolted anchor