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Peak Mountain 3

South Ridge of the Thumb

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Description

This is a fine route. It was [my] first route in [Colorado] about two decades ago, and then recently repeated. I enjoyed it [thoroughly] both times.

This route is a two pitch route.

P1. The first pitch is done on the SE side of the rock, to access the upper pitch. The exact location of the first pitch is not important, but the idea is to ascend up to and then leftward (south) on the large ledge above the school slabs. Continue left passing a few chain anchors to reach a 2-bolt belay without chains, on the South end of the rock.

P2. The second pitch wanders up and right above the overhang, then continuing up the ridge of the rock [to the] summit. This pitch is about 100 feet long and is somewhat runout, although it is not difficult to climb. It is somewhat reminiscent of [Flatirons] climbing but on granite.

Belay on large boulders up top, then walk West to rap 100' from a top anchor to the ground. This is a great route and is fun!

Protection

A few of this and that, but nothing very frequent. I got a few solid cams in horizontals. You could get more if you wander around looking for it, but at 5.3, the climb is reasonable with little gear. The belay mid-route is on 2 standard bolt & hangers.