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MapDescription
Given the same rating as
Sweat Band
in most guidebooks but it seems a little more difficult. Some tricky moves up steep rock at the start give way to balancy, sporty moves on a slab higher up. A 2.5" piece can be placed in a horizontal crack after the last bolt to lessen the runout to the anchors.
Typically given fewer stars than Sweat Band in most guides but the steeper, more varied climbing make this a better route IMO, and one to check out if in the area. Three stars out of five.
Location
This is the leftmost route on the south face.
Protection
4 bolts, bolted anchor/rap (all 1/2" SS)
A 2.5 inch piece is helpful after the last bolt
Routes in King Otto's Castle
- 5Goodbye Mr. Bond5.10cTrad