Bump and Grind

Long Canyon is home to a high concentration of

very

high quality offwidth cult classics: The Mayor, Head Stack, Dark Passenger, etc… Surely “Bump and Grind” will eventually make the list as well. The approach is stupid easy, the climbing is unforgettable, the belay ledges are comfortable, and it even tops out to a solitary tower-like finish. It is an absolute must for any desert offwidth lover.

P1) 5.10

Climb a shallow chimney/corner clipping two bolts shared with the mixed gear route to the left. Skip the third bolt and instead place a #9 up high in the dihedral (clipped long) then mantle rightward onto the ledge. Continue up a flared squeeze. Arrive at a small wedged block and place a #2 then a .75 on the right wall as you stem past them. The top block wobbles, but we’ve tried, it isn’t going anywhere. Continue up a #5 crack to a large belay ledge and two bolt anchor. 115’

Gear: .75-3.5” and #5-9 (x2), many slings.

P2) 5.12

This is the money! Bump a #6 while grinding up 45’ of solid arm-baring inside a flared corner. Use the good rest before the 30’ of severely overhanging arm-barring. A few energy zapping roofs will keep you plenty engaged. This pitch is almost all #6s, but a very tight #9 can be substituted for a #6 in the final overhang. 85’

Gear: #6 (x4), #3 Big Bro (x3) and #9 (x1).

P3) 5.7

Victory lap! A brief section of easy OW leads to some scrambling and a ledge with an anchor 20’ to the right. Don't forget to wander the tower summit, this route is the only way up there! 70’

Gear: #9 (x1) and optional #4 Big Bro

The climb is only visible from a very short section of the road. Take the standard Maverick approach trail and continue rightward past Miss Kitty and Short Crack. Keep looking up and once you can see the soaring offwidth, turn around and walk BACK 30' to a small opening to a cave. A short 4th class scramble lands you in a perfect shady nook.

.75-9"