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Peak Mountain 3

Abracadabra

FA Crusher Bartlett, Harvey Carter, November 2004
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P1. Pull over a bulge, then go through an area of large huecos. Step right to a large block, pass this gingerly, then continue right and up to a ledge. Climb straight up into a short groove and then to a major boulder-strewn ledge, about ten feet left of an obvious large tree (120', 5.9).

P2. Step left, then go up a few feet to a slanting break. Follow this right for a few moves to its end. Gain a ramp up and left. Continue up the ramp a few feet, then go up the face above. Where it steepens, move right a few feet then up. Belay on a large ledge (95', 5.7).

P3. Climb up a short dihedral, then follow ledges and blocks to the top (30', 5.7).

Location

The route is on the far, far left of Tanner Dome, beyond

Ghost Rider

. Hike the trail to Clipper and Saws, continue left a 100 yards or so to a major dihedral/chimney system (the start of Ghost Rider). Scramble left and up a couple easy rock slabs to a meadow with a few big trees. Abracadabra begins behind a large tree growing close to the rock, just 2 or 3 feet out from the cliff. The route takes an attractive, slabby face to the halfway ledge, then jogs left a tad, and then goes up to the top.

Descent: hike to summit, then go left (west) and down the gully next to the dome.

Protection

Gear: two each cams from tiny to 2"; one each from 2" to a #4 Camalot; nuts, especially RPs; and shoulder-length slings.