Cul de Sac Exit

If you are on the hunt for hard, scary classics at Devils Lake, well hold up cause you just found one!! Cul de Sac Exit is a serious lead with the crux of the route being the R rated section... That said, this beautiful and technical route will leave you wishing there was just more of it.

Start up Cul de Sac as normal. At the roof, keep climbing left, up and over to an eight inch wide finger slot. Work up the arete with thin sidepulls, slopers, and underclings. Follow arete to the top.

I believe Groth and Bechler used some hand placed pins on their ascents. Seth Dyer and I didn't use any of that, but the most important piece for me is a small (#2?) wire right dab in the middle of the crux. It is hard to fish in, but as strong as the cable once you get it. Still, in my world this thing comes with a pretty heavy R rating which could easily turn to an X mid flight...