Little Stephen

The Talon’s intimidating north face succumbs to this relatively moderate line thanks to a series of perfectly spaced, hidden jugs. The airy position and huge holds make this a highly entertaining climb, despite its short length, and the perfect warm-up for the crag’s other lines.

Begin with fingery, vertical, face climbing along intricate dinner plates. The crux comes in this section, with some 1-pad crimps and a long reach from an undercling to reach the juggy upper half. After a good shake, veer left towards the arête, where massive jugs work along the northeast edge of the precipitous upper wall.

This climbs the overhanging north face of The Talon.

5 bolts to 2BA. A stick clip is recommended.