Wildfire

An unheralded classic, Wildfire is arguably one of the crown jewels of the San Juan Range. With the exception of the short fifth pitch, this route is consistent quality rock and in a pristine, idyllic setting. It is shady until about 2 or 3pm in late summer, but the fourth pitch is shady all day.

P1: Follow pockets and jugs up to a small ledge beneath a leaning corner. Bullet rock, a great warm-up. 7ish bolts; 5.10a/b, 80'.

P2: Stem up to a delicate clip and make committing moves up and left (11a) past the bulge, and onto a 5.10 face, 8 bolts to a nice ledge.

P1+P2 can be linked with a 60m and creates an excellent long pitch.

P3: the steep crux pitch. The rock changes a bit here and climbs like limestone. Sustained 11/11+ climbing over a bulge and through sequential pockets lead to mediocre stem rests and a difficult roof. Get creative. Pull into a hanging corner and belay. This pitch is likely to seep early season, 9 bolts, 80'.

P4: the money pitch! Traverse right out over the void, staying right of the bolt line, reaching insanely exposed arete climbing! Belay at the top of the arete at a nice stance, 10+, 95', 9 bolts.

P3+P4 could be linked into a absolutely MEGA pitch, but bring plenty of long runners.

P5: the cool down? This is a short 5.8 pitch, maybe not worth doing, since it doesn't top out, but it only leads to a choss band below the top of the wall, 4 bolts?

P4+P5 are easily linked.

Rap the route with a single 60m, but tie knots!

Linking

Oz

and Wildfire together (especially linking pitches into 200' leads) is easily one of the best climbing days I've ever had. Highly recommended.

It is about 30' right of

Oz

, which is fairly easy to find.

Download

Telluride Rocks

for additional beta.

Bolts. I am pretty sure no pitch has more than 9 bolts, but I could be wrong. I think we linked P1+P2 with 16 draws. Every anchor is bolted.