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Peak Mountain 3

Unforgettable Fire

FA Glenn Shuler, Kevin McLaughlin, Wayne Smith, 2001
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This climb starts by clipping the first 5 bolts of

The Green Mile

. From here, you move to the left along a ramp which is protectable in a crack. I used gear as big as a #1 Camalot on this pitch, although Jason Haas says in his book to rack up to a #0.75 Camalot. I did use the #0.75. There are bolts from which to belay. The second pitch goes up the slab above following a protruding dike. This pitch is protected by 13 bolts with a bolt anchor at the top. The pitch is fun but not too hard for a 5.9. You better like slabs if you do this climb!

Location

This route starts with the first 5 bolts of

The Green Mile

but moves left and is the left most route on the rock. You rappel the route to descend which takes two ropes to get down the second pitch. The route starts on

The Green Mile

.

Protection

Five bolts and a rack to about a #1 Camalot on the first pitch and thirteen bolts on the second pitch. There are bolt anchors after both pitches.