- Edit (TBD)
Description
Protection
Glacier travel / rescue gear for your chosen approach route. Many choose to climb the Pyramid un-roped if your skill level is proficient on the terrain and conditions allow. The rock quality is very good, the exposure is relatively low for a mountain and none of the moves are totally vertical. If you wish to protect the route, double length slings to protect the ridge is all you need if you're proficient with simul climbing or terrain belay anchors. This route is not run out and the pro is bomber. Optional pro to 1.5" to sew up the route and if you don't wish to use terrain anchors (horns); Tricams are best, nuts or cams will all place easily on the bomber rock and it's easy to sew it up if you choose to. Cams should be considered with caution because of possible wet cracks year round and substantial weight penalty.
The route starts out class 3 then class 4 and only has a few low class 5 moves but is exposed for a few moves.
A 60 meter rope to rappel the standard gully will reach all belay stations as of 7/18/18. A shorter rope would work if you're willing to down climb between stations (I've used both a 50m and a 30m on separate occasions but I don't recommend anything shorter than a full 60 meters). Early season you may need to setup your own rap stations or replace old ones so consider bringing the materials for this ie tubular webbing and rap rings.
Routes in Mt. Shuksan
- 4Southeast Ridge (SE Corner)5.3Alpine · Trad