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Peak Mountain 3

Lil' Red

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Description

The following description was taken directly from the Falcon Guide by Todd Swain.

"This route starts about 40' right of the last climb at an obvious right-leaning crack. Climb a varnished area (crux) to reach the crack system. Follow the main crack system up and right until it goes around a corner into a gully. Variation: Move left from the main crack system into a prominent, vertical crack and follow that to the top."

This thing felt a good bit harder than 5.9 to me... but I think it was because there were a number of massive, loose blocks and the route was super chossy. This could be good if it was climbed more often and had some anchors at the top!

Protection

Standard trad rack.

No anchor at the top, though if you work right to the top of the gully there is a piece of webbing on a thread through with a rap ring that will get you to the base of the gully with a single rope.