Old North Face

It has been customary to include any route on the north face of Sugarloaf under the heading of North Face and to cover some considerable discrepancies with a disclaimer about “infinite variations.” But in reality from about a third of the way up there are two routes in general use, one on the right with its shiny gear at each belay, and the other on the left with tattered slings on windblown trees and rusty pitons. The two routes come to within 50 feet of each other at the Bivy Ledge, and the ledge can be used to connect them, but above that they are far apart.

The Old North Face (which for the top half of the climb is on an easier, if admittedly dirtier, terrain) is not only of historical interest, or just another alternative. Starting from the Bivy Ledge it becomes the preferred way to reach the summit when strong westerly winds (for which Sugarloaf is infamous) make runout slabs elsewhere untenable. And it makes a good soloing route.

The Old North Face had 13 pitches, back when. The description that follows is intended for a modern use, but even at the beginning where it follows the route of North Face, it gives an alternative layout of some of the belays.

Pitch 1: (same as North Face) go up and slightly left past one tree with a sling high up on it, to the highest large tree, again with a sling.

Pitch 2: (same as North Face, but shorter) go straight up over the small and easy roof. Check out the rigid-stem Friend used as a part of a fixed gear anchor (and place your own gear). Stop at the first set of bolts.

Pitch 3: (still on North Face route, or not) go up past a pair of bolts found just below the right end of the overlap above. If staying on North Face route, go left along a smoothish ramp below the overlap and then up the draw to a small tree. A challenging variation takes off from the bolts up and slightly to the right under the small overhang, then continues up the black streak. It re-joins the North Face just below the its Pitch 4 belay which it shares. It has been climbed in the past, as attested to by old bolts, but it is run out and not recommended.

Pitch 4: (if done as for North Face) go up the groove, past bolts, and follow an easy ramp heading right to a pair of pitons.

Pitch 5: finish the last of the ramp, then cross a field of chicken heads to a left facing corner. The bolts to the right of the top of the corner are the North Face Pitch 4 belay. Clip one of the bolts that are couple of feet to the right of the top of the corner with a long sling and turn to traverse left and up to the base of the huge right-facing dihedral and belay. This is the crux, and a heady, runout lead. Some belay at a low ledge with a huge homemade piton. I prefer to set a belay anchor up at the base of the dihedral itself.

Pitch 6: Lead up the right-facing dihedral. Mostly climb out on the face to the right, moving left occasionally to place gear. At the dihedral's break to the right, escape left and then up to a horizontal ledge/crack. Belay here. You may need to simul depending on where the starting belay is set and on whether you have a 60 or 70 meter rope. (It is possible to do above P5/P6 in three pitches without any simul-climbing with a 60 meter rope by finishing P5 at the bolts then leading to the huge right-facing dihedral and belaying where the dihedral breaks right (a semi-hanging belay on gear :-/). From there you escape left and stop at a gear anchor at Bivy Ledge level.

Pitch 7: If joining the route here from North Face, walk left from Bivy Ledge bolts to the right-facing corner, the left side of which is now made of stacked flakes. Go up the corner to a gully. Continue up the left side of the gully to the windblown tree with slings on it.

Pitch 8: Continue up the gully which will turn into a narrowing ramp with some exposure to the left. You can continue up the ramp and then go right up another, even dirtier, gully, but the rope drag is significant. Instead go up to the right past small overlaps on an easy and protectable ground. You can set up a belay in the boulders above, but that will mean either two pitches to the top or some easy simul-climbing. A longer pitch to a crack in the slope above will avoid that.

Pitch 9: Head toward the roof below the summit. Take the groove leading to the left of it. The moves involved in turning the roof are easy enough and protectable. It is possible to go around the roof on the right instead, with more exposure and a short (protectable) hand traverse which leads to a right facing corner.

Start (and first four pitches or so) shared with North Face, after that left of that route.

A run-out trad route with some bolts and pitons along the way.