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Peak Mountain 3

Tail Wagger

FA Andrew Gram and Josh Thompson, Oct. 2010
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Pitch 1. Start up a thin hands crack. Climb through the OW bulge to a big ledge, then continue up the obvious hand/finger crack above to the belay directly below the double crack second pitch. Belay @ 2 good bolts with chains, 5.10, 100 feet.

Pitch 2. Climb the double cracks until they end. Do a couple of more moves up a hand crack, and belay below the right-leaning, varnished crack. The belay is 3 good bolts, 5.10, 75 feet.

Pitch 3. Climb out the varnished/ right-leaning fist crack until it gets wide and goes straight up. Continue up the OW to a huge ledge, which is more like a subsummit of the tower. The belay is 3 good bolts, 5.11, 60 feet.

Pitch 4. Step across the chimney and onto the summit section of the tower. Pass a bolt, and face climb left then back right to the summit of the tower. Belay at 4 good bolts, 5.10, 25 feet.

To descend: rappel the route with one 60m rope.

Location

This is located approximately 1 hour hike up Mee Canyon. It is directly across from The Arch Tower and on the same ridge as the

The Garston Trout

.

Protection

1 each: green, yellow, and red Alien (or equivalent).

2-3 each: #0.75 to #3 Camalot.

1-2 each: #4 to #5 Camalot.

Optional #6 Camalot.