Poison Balance

Immediately to the left of Celestial Groove is this fun line. Start straight up the hand crack in the dihedral. At the horizontal break, follow the leftward arch. A bolt above the final good jam on the arch protects the crux, a very delicate smear and balance move. Doing the move on the dog feels like no big deal. For some reason, it's a whole different story on redpoint; it's very hard to make your foot stick on the high smear. I guess that accounts for the guidebook rating discrepancies. From there, it's one more bolt and an easy crack to the top.

Single set of cams, a couple draws and a handful of nuts.