Clementine

Approach: 2 to 2.5 hours. Fisherman's trail towards Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne. Wildcat Point is the beautiful dome about a mile downstream of Glen Aulin.

Pitch 1: 5.12a, 130'

Single rack to #1, doubles to .5

Chickenheads past 2 bolts to cruxy step across/down. Hard lieback move to crack and flake features, then a traverse to the anchor.

Anchor: 1 bolt and gear.

Pitch 2: 5.12b, 90'

Single rack to #1

Step up and right to thin crack. Sustained jams and liebacking to a bolt protected crack switch. Rest, then pull the roof and cruise to the anchor. Awesome.

Anchor: One bolt and gear

Pitch 3: 5.10b, 130'

Full rack

Traverse up and right on flakes to glory crack system.

Anchor: One bolt and #1 or #2 cam

Pitch 4: 5.9, 70'

Single rack

Up short 5.7 flare to middle of three flake systems. Beautiful hand sized crack.

Anchor: 2 bolts

Atop pitch 4 is Terrapin Station, a huge ledge.

From here there are two options:

1. Traverse the ledge to the right and scramble down to a pin and bolt anchor. Make 3 single 70m rope rappels to the ground.

2. Continue to the top by way of Wildcat Buttress 5.9 A4 (not recommended).

Look for two parallel crack systems running up face. Clementine approaches them and climbs the right one.

Doubles small to #1

Single #2

Nuts

70m rope