- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is a variation start and direct finish to
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Start 30 feet down and left from
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Climb past a bolt, then move right and climb a right-leaning thin crack (10a), then up a short vertical crack. Move right at a bolt (5.9) onto a slab, then join
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at a small overhang.
Climb over the overhang (5.10b/c) then clip a bolt at the base of a 30-foot, slightly overhanging hand and fist crack. This bolt was placed by Richard Harrison on the first ascent of
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in 1973 (subsequently replaced with a 3/8-inch bolt many years ago), as Richard presumably didn't trust his rack of hexes to get solid placements in the slightly flaring crack.
Jam and lieback the crack (burly 5.10c), then, where the crack veers left and turns low-angle, step right and climb a slab with 3 bolts (10a), following a thin orange vertical dike, up to a 2-bolt anchor. Just above the last bolt you can place a .3 to .75-inch camming device before reaching the anchor.
Protection
Stoppers: doubles # 4-5, plus one large (#11 or 12).
Cams: Double set from .3 to 3 inches (up to #3 Camalots)
6 bolts, 2-bolt anchor
You can lower off with a 60 meter rope, but barely. Tie a knot in the end of your rope.