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Peak Mountain 3

"Out of the Wilderness" (on Bottom Slab)

FA - Unknown / As Climbed By : RH & RW Aug 2015
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This climb is located on the slab/face BELOW the Half-Way Tree Ledge and starts on the ground at the base of the cliff...the Sandwich Range Wilderness.

While listed as "1 pitch climb" it is necessary to climb a second pitch on the "upper slab" to reach the normal access point...the top of the cliff.

ACCESS - Rap with two ropes from the 3/8" bolt (with gear back-up) at the top of Ringwraith to the double bolt anchor/station at the Half-Way Ledge. From here rap with two 60m ropes to the bottom of the cliff. (a 60m and a 50m probably will make it if the knot is moved several feet down from the anchors)

P1 - Start on the ground below 2 or 3 easy overlaps. Climb up and over the easy overlaps and then pad up easy slab 25-35 ft to a detached flake on the right with a more secure flake above; the more secure forms a left-facing shallow corner. Continue up this on good rock to a crack (crux, photo, "upper part of route"), then step left and up to the double bolt anchor/station on the Half-Way Ledge. 190 ft  5.6 PG-13 

Finish on one of the routes on the Upper Slab, Ringwraith is suggested if you haven't done it.

Location

On the lower slab of the cliff, below the Half-Way tree ledge.

Protection

Standard rack, medium (thumb-sized) nuts handy.