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Peak Mountain 3

Time

FA Cory Hanson
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

You won’t have enough time for everything so make time for the things that matter.

Time ascends the grey hourglass shaped slab that is the namesake of this section of the cliff and the largest contiguous feature in the whole of the Farmhouse. Begin on the ledge below the slab (accessed by climbing The Beginning of Time). Then crawl your way up delicate and demanding intro climbing to a no-hands rest in the notch of the hourglass. Climb and up and right from the notch to gain a series of amazing features leading straight up the middle of the slab. A short and challenging traverse left awaits those who pull through the last crux. This traverse puts you onto slightly lower angle terrain with four somewhat spacey bolts that lead to the top of the wall.  The belayer can run a long tether up to the first draw and out left to the anchors for ‘The Beginning of Time’ in order to belay from a standing stance with the ability to provide a dynamic catch. There will be improvements to the belay ledge in the future. 

Location

Access the pitch by climbing ‘The Beginning of Time’ to gain the ledge at the base of the hourglass shaped slab. 

Protection

20ish? Bolts to anchors. A 70m rope will NOT make it from the first belay ledge to the top and back down. You can climb the route with a 70m rope but when you are lowering you will have to stop at the anchors in the notch of the hourglass to untie and pull the rope. You can also break the pitch up into two separate pitches using these anchors. It wouldn't really change the grade of the route much since this spot is a no hands rest on the climb anyway but the ascent would certainly be less epic and belaying from the notch is very annoying.


Routes in The Hourglass