Spaceshot (Free)

The free version of Spaceshot is a climb that is often overlooked compared to it's neighbor, the Moonlight Buttress. While not as continuously difficult as Moonlight, Spaceshot serves up more varied and interesting climbing. It consists of several different cruxes of varying styles with moderate climbing in between and offers incredible position on the upper section of the route.

The crux pitch was originally equipped by Justin Sjong, Tim Kemple and Adam Stack. They were, unfortunately, weathered off and the full FFA eventually fell to the Anderson brothers who made an impressive 1 day ascent, in June! This included piecing together the bolted variation to the summit bolt ladder and flashing said 5.12 pitch, at the top of the route, on the fly.

Parties capable of freeing this route should have no trouble scrambling the 30 foot 5.8 step at the start, but it is protectable with a couple 3's and 4's. If hauling, you'll want to hit the 5.9 corner above this step on your right, and haul your bags to the top of the pillar. If climbing in-a-day then go around this pillar to find the start of the route. My route description starts here.

P1 5.9, 40 meters - Start in a left facing corner 100 feet left of the pillar described above. This tops out on a spacious ledge with 2 widely spaced drilled angles and a slung boulder. This anchor would be much better if someone added a single bolt closer to the left angle and equipped it for rappelling so the tat could be removed.

P2, 5.10-, 40 meters - Head up and right and mantel a ledge below a roof. Climb thru this roof and up the corner on your right. Low angle terrain up top takes you to a 2 pin anchor below the first aid pitch. This is a spacious bivy. The crux is on your right.

P3, 5.13- (11-, PG13), 40 meters - It is strongly recommended to climb this pitch with 2 single lines. Alternatively, I've spoken with a few people who climbed it using 48 inch runners on each bolt and a single line. Stem up behind Bozo's Pinnacle and climb intriguing face features weaving their way up the face above. Eventually traverse 40 feet left and regain the aid seam, climb the insecure slabby seam and keep your cool thru the sandy run-out, eventually gaining the anchor. Drilled angle & modern bolt. The position of this hanging anchor sucks, to say the least. However there is a good, no-hands stance, about 10 feet below the anchor. While it's possible to extend your belay, I think both the aid and free climbing communities would appreciate the anchor being placed in the ideal location for the stance, but that's a discussion that the local community would need be involved in.

P4, 5.12c, 40 meters - Climb the incredible fingers and tips crack above. Some bouldery cruxes take you to a hanging aid belay. Clip this and traverse left to the OW/Flare. Climb the OW for 20 feet and pick one of 2 options. Build a gear belay and stand on a great ledge out left or traverse up and right 15 feet and belay at a smaller stance on a 2 pin anchor.

P5, 5.10+, 20-30 meters - If you belayed from the pin anchor then this pitch is quite short. Climb splitter fingers to thin hands and belay at the first pin anchor on your right. Small stance.

P6, 5.10+, 50 meters - Arguably one of the best positions you'll find for a splitter hand crack. Swim up secure jams and soak up the exposure along the way. Eventually boulder over a steep block at the top and find yourself on Orbit Ledge. Be sure to protect your follower and then traverse waaaaay right to a 2 pin anchor. This ledge could be an emergency bivy, but it's pretty sloping.

P7, 5.12b, 40 meters - The Anderson brothers originally split this in to 2 pitches, which would reduce drag a fair bit. We did it in 1 and the rope drag wasn't bad until we were on much easier terrain. Traverse right and clip some angles, eventually mantelling onto a small ledge (optional belay bolt here). Climb difficult terrain straight up the original bolt ladder until it blanks out. Head left here and pull off a tricky mantel onto a sandy sloping ledge. Start heading back right and climb easy terrain to the summit and 2 sweet ASCA bolts for the belay.

Descent: Head down the drainage between the Leaning Wall and Desert Shield. Find a large pine tree with some tat and rap with one 70 meter rope. Head down skiers left until you find a bolted rap anchor. From here down its several double rope raps to place you at the springs below.

Base of the Leaning Wall (big wall with the arch). Approach is an obvious trail coming off the road and takes you straight to the base.

Brass offsets - medium offsets. Doubles 000 C3 - 0 C3. Triples Red C3 - #1 Camalot. Doubles #2 C4 - #4 C4. (If you're not comfortable running out the handcracks above then bring triples of the 2's and 3's). 12 alpine draws. 2 ropes or 48 inch runners for the crux. Double rope raps.