- Edit (TBD)
Description
This route is a few hundred feet to the left of where the trail meets the rock. It is a long right facing corner that passes through a few roofs. It starts out with some laybacking that quickly turns to perfect hands. Its long, pumpy and awesome. It gets a five star, 5.11 grade in the guide but many will say a #2 Camalot-sized crack can't be harder than 5.10+. Go figure.
(Per claramie's 2008 description for gold crown) " #7 in the bloom book. Didn't look 120' from the ground to me. Start in a right facing .75 to 1 crack up through a roof and change corners. Pause for a rest in the pod. Continue up through another roof and into the offwidth (work the frog step). Power through one last section and keep your cool when you try to clip the anchors. Absolutely AWESOME route!!"
Protection
Mostly #2 Camalots with a few #1 and some smaller stuff for the lieback start
(per claramie's 2008 entry for gold crown) "The bloom book is good. Keep a .75 and a 1 for up higher."
Routes in Broken Tooth
- 6unnamed classic hand crack aka Gold Crown5.11-Trad