Five Second Rule aka Thomas G Needs Beer Goggles

Straightforward, fun face climbing on gigantic holds and originally done on all gear. Several old-school traddy friends highly encouraged us to add guidance bolts. "Even the Ruckmans put guidance bolts on Weenie Roast."

Once you can figure out the

Big Cottonwood Lean

, all the gear placements are from solid foot stances.

Way back in the day, Scott Keller helped me figure out how to establish a new route when we did Hibachi Time. As much as I still really like that climb, this is way more fun. The line is more straightforward and the climbing is more consistently at the grade. Even better: You still get to place a solid piece of gear, then move above it and turn your hips/back step/rock over/gaston/undercling, etc.

Finally, the straighter line makes this a lot less stressful for an inexperienced follower.

Look for a red bolt on a small vertical face about 15 feet left of The Raw and The Cooked. Standing back from the cliff a little lets you see all 3 bolts and the upper anchors.

NOTE: Look up at the green patch of nettle just to the right of vertical face where the description says the route starts. Climb straight for the nettle. Roll in it. Inhale the sting. Rub it on your arms. Your knees. Your ankles. Rest in it. You are off route and it's not our fault.

Standard rack from yellow TCU through #3 camalot. You could bring doubles in .4-1 camalots but seriously, part of the fun is figuring out the gear. Save a hand or fist sized piece for the last move.