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Peak Mountain 3

Rubics

FA Alan Prehmus, 2015
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Work through the steep rock at the start, avoiding the overhangs on both sides. Climb the easier, circuitous route with awkward/off-balance moves or the more strenuous direct line to surmount the bulge. The 4th bolt is left of the line to keep the rope clear of a sharp horizontal edge. Resist using a long draw here. Climbing above the 4th bolt is easier with a bit of a pull to clear the horizontal cut-out that forms a nice belay ledge with a 2-bolt anchor.

There is the option to continue with a trad pitch 2 (~5.6, 80 feet?), but the last 20 feet needs industrial-weight cleaning. Double bolts are in place for an anchor. From there, a short P3 has only a few easy moves (5.2?) on trad gear before the ridge rounds to 4th then 3rd Class leading ~50 feet to the big ledge where

Fun & Games

P2 begins.

Location

Start on the lower west side, around left end of main Red Slab face. Go around the low point of the rock and ~50 feet slightly uphill to an overhanging bulge at the base of the rock.

Protection

P1: 8 bolts to double chain anchors at a nice ledge. It is possible to scramble up onto or off of this ledge from the gully on the left (north) near the base of

Fun 'n' Games

.

The optional P2 is trad to double bolted anchors.

You can rap each pitch with single 60m rope.