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Peak Mountain 3

The Front Matter

FA Kris G, Rosie F
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Fun slab with an exciting roof pull located between GRB and RR. Starts on a nice ledge that is about 15' up so be careful getting set up. Mostly bolted with a run out or optional gear on last 50' of easy, climb-walking on second pitch.Pitch 1: 5.8+, 105', 10 bolts (+1 belayer bolt). After the first lead-bolt, mantle to a sloping-ledge and move left to the next bolt. Continue up through mostly low-angle rock with good holds which gets steeper and better the higher you go. End at a small but decent ledge with anchor bolts.

Pitch 2: 5.9, 125', 9 bolts, optional gear. Climb up the short, shallow right-facing corner and onto the slab above. Continue up the slab aiming for the 3-foot, right-facing arete/corner/roof above. Pull through this feature, trending left above, to a small ledge with a left-facing corner (you can't see this corner from the belay). The rock between the last bolt and the small ledge is a little crispy still, climb carefully as this section cleans up. All bolt protected to this point and business has largely concluded. 80' to this small ledge.Once on the ledge, you won't be able to see your follower and you can do an optional gear anchor if desired. That said, I suggest avoiding this belay, extend any pro placed above, and just climb-walk up the easy corner (5.2) to the top. The anchor is in a microwave-sized hueco to the right of the crack just before the summit's flat top. 50'. Finger/hand-size gear for the optional belay/pro (long runners/slings helpful).

Note: I found the existing top anchors midway through developing the route. If anyone has any knowledge of this and wants credit given, please let me know.

Location

Located about 40' left of GRB. Scramble up a left-facing corner to the right end of a ledge with a scraggly Cat's Claw bush on the left end. Centered on the ledge is a belayer-bolt which marks the start of the route.

Protection

Bolts and optional gear on the 50' of easy climbing to the top. Bolted anchors.