Mega Bucks

Striking offwidth in a huge left-facing corner that begs to be climbed. About as difficult as The Big Baby, without the roof crux but overall more sustained and grueling.

The route begins as sharp thin hands - not as painful as they look - that quickly widens to hands and fists in the first 30-40 feet. At this point gather as much courage and determination that you can muster, tell your belayer to get comfy, and stack your way up the seemingly endless 5-5.5” crack. A couple 6-7” pods give your knee a break and have a few face holds of questionable integrity, along with one thank-god jug where you’ll experience how overjoyed Columbus must have felt upon seeing solid land for the first time in months.

A 70m rope will NOT make it down – not sure about an 80m, but with anything less two ropes are mandatory! Also be aware that the anchor consists of two rusty pitons, with several layers of webbing joined by two carabiners. Some of the webbing looked new but the pitons weren’t the most confidence inspiring.

Left side of Reservoir Wall, a couple hundred feet left of Gurkha and Ninja in a huge left-facing corner. If you get to one of the dark, loose gravel sections of the trail, you’ve gone too far

C4s:

1x #1

1x #2

1x #3

4x #4

5-6x #5

1-2x #6

The more #5s you have, the fewer #6s you need. I also brought an old #4 and was glad to have it near the top.