Prodigal

One of the steepest in the canyon, but this is no fitness route! Begin by clipping the first permadraw of Majosha and then break right. Put long slings on the next two bolts, which are all jugs and occasionally seep. Rest up at the base of the roof, and then begin the v9ish boulder problem crux, with the moves at the lip being the hardest. Crimp strength and a strong core will go a long way.

After the boulder problem, get a decent rest in a sort of corner. Clip this bolt and the next with long slings. Traverse left through some crumbly rock, and then begin a possible heartbreaker sequence at the last bolt. The finish to this route is still 5.12 and almost always wet...

One thing to note - it is very easy (and worth it) to work this route just through the crux with 5 draws.

Base of the big steep prow at Toomsuba. Shares start with Majosha, which has chain draws.

Bolts and anchors