Razor Hein Stick

This is the hardest friction slab climb that I have ever done. I first attempted the climb on toprope in 1981 with Kent Lugbill (if my memory serves me right). We were able to fight our way up the vertical start, only to find the slab to be impossible. The invention of sticky rubber rock shoes changed everything. I returned in Fall 1984 & successfully toproped the climb in a pair of Boreal Fires. Then in the Summer 1985, I placed 3 bolts, plus a #1 RP on rappel to protect the climb. After a few attempts, I successfully led the route. Sticking to the moves past the upper 2 bolts felt magical. I repeated the route on numerous occasions & flailed on other attempts. Temperature, shoes, & mindset are everything on such an insecure slab. In 1988, I replaced the fixed #1 RP with what is now the 2nd bolt. In November 1992, I replaced the original bolts that were 1/4" buttonheads & a 3/8" Star drive in, plus added the 2 bolt anchor.

Begin by climbing a moderate thin crack (RPs and/or small stoppers & a red Alien) to its end. Clip the 1st bolt on a vertical face. It may be possible to stickclip the 1st bolt with a long extension pole. 5.11+ moves lead up the face to gain the slab above the 2nd bolt. 5.12 friction moves, with tiny finger edges, ascend the high angle slab, past the upper 2 bolts, to a large sloping dish. A final hard move gains a stance in the dish. Continue up 20 feet of moderate (5.6) slab climbing with good holds, to a crack. A bomber 1" cam (red Alien) can be placed here. Finish up an easy wide crack. Look for face holds in the crack.

It is 15 feet right of

Treetop Landing

& 15-20 feet left of

Peapod

.

4 bolts, plus RPs (steel nuts) and /or small wired stoppers, two Red Aliens (or 1" cams), and 2 Goldshuts.