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Peak Mountain 3

Aces and Eights

FA Kathy Kocon and Mark Leonard
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Approach as for rappelling to Yucca Flower Tower. See directions there for finding the rap station for Aces and Eights.

Rap 180 feet to a small ledge, and build a belay. If you instead end the rap lower at a dirt stance in the gully itself, this can add about 20 feet of stiff climbing just left of the gully where pro may be scant (we only top roped).

Assuming a higher stop than the dirt spot in the gully, the route starts up a moderate left facing dihedral with a hand crack and a few face moves here and there with good movement qualities on the entire climb. It is a little dirty and loose in a few spots, but it is worth doing. The crux is about 2/3 of the way up and the grade remains consistent for the entire route.

Location

The 2 bolt chained anchor for this route is located about 15 yards south of The Great Escape anchors.

Protection

2-60 meter ropes, stoppers, double cams from 3/8"-3", 15-24" runners, and a cordellette.