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Peak Mountain 3

Domino Theory

FA Kevin Reed, Pablo Frank, Jake the Russian, Fall 2016
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Domino Theory has very interesting and different climbing from the get go for sure. A tricky overhang and face leads to the large ledge. A well-protected move from the ledge gets you started up the dihedrals and ledges. Somewhat puzzling moves from the last ledge,

i.e.

cruxy . . . , get you to a face and a final small roof. Overcome the roof, and get to the lower set of chains. From here, you can lower on a 70m rope (tie knots just in case, the angling nature of the route tends to make your rope feel shorter...). For a bonus, proceed up to the left for another bolt and then to the upper chains as on the

Sitting Pretty

extension. These upper chains will need either an 80m rope for lowering or a multiple rappel to get you down to the crag bottom.

When first climbed, at least one large, “domino”-like slab was teetering on the cliff and was removed finding its way to the river bottom. That first domino picked up a few other smaller dominoes along the way, and many pieces and shards ended up taking a swim... no bats, birds, or wasps were injured during the process as far as is known.

CAUTION:

toprope, lower, or rappel with at least a 70m rope from the lower anchors, and tie knots to avoid trouble (it's a rope stretcher!) Use an 80m to get all the way down from the upper anchors.

Location

From the west, traverse along the cliff bottom, and step down a few steps at a cave-like overhang. Continue east under a buttress (the start of

Rainbird

and

Redbird

) around to a corner (

Tenacious

), and find a large boulder, the Impact Zone (so-called due to the propensity for plunging projectiles to impact in that area). Just before arriving on the boulder, find the undercut start to Domino Theory. Left of DT is

Sitting Pretty

.

Protection

12 bolts + chains to the 1st anchor; 13 bolts + 1st anchor chains = 14 clips + chains for the upper anchor.