- Edit (TBD)
Description
Overall a fun and funky route with unique rock, some tricky pro (cams), pumpy climbing, and a wild little overhang pull on P2. Unfortunately this line can be wet in all but the driest conditions.
P1 Up face and blunt arete left of original route. Funky cams in pockets and pods ~ 5.10. Mantel under big overhang then climb up and right to shared anchor.
P2 Up short face to left facing overhang/corner. Clip bolt then pull over overhang via a tough little heel hook move. Perhaps 5.11-. Gain stance on face then climb straight up a ways, finding funky cams here and there. Finish to ledge and anchor of other route to the right. Rap or finish P3 by joining other route.
Location
Just before a large boulder that requires climbing around, locate the blunt dark-colored arete just right of Ptygmatic (and under large roof).
Protection
standard rack
Routes in The Flackamite/Pirate wall
- 8Drooling Badger5.11-Trad