- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is a fun and exciting route with great crux moves through the roof. The gear is reasonable for the crux as well, and the fall would be clean. Take a lot (at least 5) of 2-foot runners to protect this climb, as the tiered roofs of the
Left Wing
start require some, as will the roof crux.
The route ascends a system not very visible on the photo attached, for its bottom half. For the roof and final dihedral, however, this route is appears on the upper left-hand corner of the photo as a small roof (crux 5.10+) just below a massive trapezoidal roof, which is just the right-hand side of the final dihedral (5.9), to be described. To climb this route, approach as for "
FM
" and do the opening moves of "
FM
," up past a pin (5.10+) then up and left to a ledge as for the start of "
Left Wing
." Alternatively, start by scrambling to this same point. Now, continue up the first 30 feet of "
Left Wing
," to where it goes left on the face - clip the first bolt and then go right to continue upward in the dihedral. This is insecure 5.10 for a few moves and is sometimes a bit wet. If it is wet, wait until it is dry, so the route goes full-value on fun. From the dihedral, you will place a few cams (1" and 1.5"-2") in the crack overhead through the roof. This is the crux pro, so set it well, and mind the drag with some long slings if you place one in the back of the corner. Undercling out to a lie-back move, then jam and heel-hook to swing through the roof and up. This is solid and powerful 5.10+ but is not sustained. Once over the roof, establish a rest stance and place gear before making some insecure face-moves up to the left side of a hanging pillar, which forms a roof at its bottom. Climb on the left side of the roof formed by said pillar, and up into the dihedral on the left of this pillar to the top (5.9).
The route is very fun and sports a wild array of moves.
Protection
Standard rack plus some extra cams 0.75" - 2.5". IF I correctly recall, the crux is just above a 1.5- 2" cam placement.