Wipeout

Refer: Rock Climbing Western Oregon, Vol. 2 Umpqua 2007. Topo pp. 208 Pitch-1: Begins from the base of a large Douglas-fir. Follow bolts straight up with Easy Street traversing off to the the right. This first pitch is mossy and requires dry conditions, about 80 feet of 5.7-5.9. Pitch-2: Rock clears of moss and has a very positive coarse texture. First 60 ft off the anchors  is 5.8 follow the seam drifting slightly left. The first time we climbed this we placed one #6 nut in the seam. Once through the steeper section the angle lessens to 5.7 climbing. Towards the top of pitch-2 the route climbs through a short steep section from the seam onto a sloping slab shelf (5.8). Next belay is on this sloping slab just under the headwall with the belay for Easy Street on the right side of the slab. Pitch-3: short (approx. 40 ft) crux straight up over the headwall (5.10-), or follow Easy Street up the dirty shute around the right side of the headwall (Class 4 to low 5). Pitch-4: From the top of the headwall scramble class-4 up the obvious rock gully about 60 feet to the short headwall near the top where you will find an anchor protecting a low-5 move onto the summit ridge. Follow the summit ridge to its highest point where you will find rappel chains and a climbing register. Rappel: Four very fun 30-m rappels down the face of McKinley Rock. Make sure you tie a knot in your ends.

Refer: Rock Climbing Western Oregon, Vol. 2 Umpqua 2007. Map pages 204 and 205. Recommend using Forest Service Road 3825.

3/8" Fixe SS Double Expansion, no chains at belays, rappel chains at summit.