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Peak Mountain 3

Defoliator

FA Curtis Glass and Steve Ritchie
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

One of the few "true classics" at Lost Wall, this route actually has 3 variations. For the original route, climb the shallow corner to the top, then move left to an RP sized weakness. Finish by moving up to the ledge, then left through a V shaped roof/slot. For a 5.9- version, after reaching the top of the shallow corner, climb straight up through a short runout section to the same ledge as the original and move left to the V roof. The third variation is actually a separate route called "Easy Street", 5.8. Wander off to the right after the shallow corner and finish on a ledge.

Location

Walk past Booze and Broads to the end of the dihedral area. About 100ft past this point, you will see a very tall slab split by a shallow left facing corner that ends about halfway up, with orange roofs at the top.

Protection

You'll need some smaller cams in addition to the usual standard rack. Nuts work very well on this climb, too.